Did you know that you can find French culture, cuisine and heritage only a 45-minute flight from Newfoundland?
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| Saint-Pierre & Miquelon flag |
| Photo © Barb & Ron Kroll |
No, we're not talking about Quebec or francophone Canada. Saint-Pierre and Miquelon are the last remnants of the French empire in North America. Their flag depicts the Grande Hermine, the ship on which Jacques Cartier landed in Saint-Pierre in 1536 and claimed the islands for France.
The Portuguese discovered the islands in 1520. European fishermen followed, drawn by the abundant cod. For years, the islands were tossed back-and-forth like ping-pong balls between France and Britain. Dispelled to France six times, the residents always returned.
The 1763 Treaty of Paris awarded Saint-Pierre & Miquelon to France as a token concession after giving the rest of Canada to Britain. Additional British occupations prevented France from permanently repopulating the islands until 1816.
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| Tourist Information Office in Saint-Pierre |
| Photo © Barb & Ron Kroll |
Tourist information office
Our first stop was the Tourist Information Office in Saint-Pierre, where we picked up free brochures and guidebooks. Their maps showed us that the archipelago is comprised of three main islands and several uninhabited islets.
Located in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, 20 kilometers south of Newfoundland and 4,300 kilometers west of Paris, the islands are accessible by air and sea.
Flights & ferries to Saint-Pierre
Air Saint-Pierre flights connect the island to Paris, Montreal, Halifax, Les-Iles-de-la-Madeleine and St. John's. (The flight from Newfoundland's capital is only 45 minutes long.)
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| Map with flights and ferry routes |
| Photo © Barb & Ron Kroll |
A ferry transports passengers, year-round, from Fortune NL to Saint-Pierre in 55 minutes. It travels between Fortune and Miquelon-Langlade from May to September. Pleasure boats and a few cruise ships also bring visitors.
When booking flights and ferries, keep in mind that Saint-Pierre has a different time zone from Canada. It is 30 minutes later than the Newfoundland time zone.
Connections to France
Saint-Pierre, the capital and smallest main island (26 square kilometers) has a population of 5,500. Most tourists visit the island between mid-April and late October when the weather is the best.
Generous subsidies from the French government support health care and education. "Students going to universities in Canada and France receive funding for accommodations. If they study in French universities, tuition is free. The government pays for flights back home for the summer holidays," explained Anya, who was born in Saint-Pierre.
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| Saint-Pierre destinations sign |
| Photo © Barb & Ron Kroll |
As we looked at a sign pointing to the gendarmerie (police station) on Saint-Pierre, Anya explained that France sends three gendarmes to the islands on three-year postings.
"It's like a holiday for them. Saint-Pierre and Miquelon are so safe that they have nothing to do."
Shopping for French wine
On Saint-Pierre walking tours, guides point out French architectural details. Although the official language is French, many residents also speak English. Street signs and town squares, such as the waterfront Place du Général de Gaulle, honor local and French citizens and dignitaries.
Boutiques sell French perfume, fashions, wines, cognacs and Champagne. Euros are the official currency, but stores accept Canadian dollars, as well as Visa and Mastercard.
ATMs accept credit cards, but not debit cards. There are no sales taxes, so you pay the displayed prices.
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| Buttery croissants |
| Photo © Barb & Ron Kroll |
Bakeries and French pastries
Restaurants serve French specialties, including crêpes, duck terrine and seafood smothered in wine and cream sauces. As in France, most shops and businesses close between noon and 2 pm so that residents can enjoy leisurely lunches.
Aromas of buttery croissants and freshly baked baguettes waft from boulangeries. Displays of decadent pastries lured us into pâtisseries and salons de thé (tea rooms). They were worth every calorie.
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| French pastries in pâtisserie |
| Photo © Barb & Ron Kroll |
Museums and attractions
We made some surprising discoveries as we explored compact Saint-Pierre on foot. In the Arche Museum and Archives, we viewed the only guillotine ever used in North America. Its blade dropped once — in 1889 to execute a thief who had killed his victim.
Another unanticipated sight was the Cutty Sark house, built from recycled whisky crates after Prohibition. From 1920 to 1933, Saint-Pierre & Miquelon residents grew wealthy smuggling alcoholic contraband to rumrunners to quench thirsty North American throats.
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| Folk-dancing |
| Photo © Barb & Ron Kroll |
Traditional music & dances
A highlight of our trip to Saint-Pierre was chatting with the friendly residents and learning about their way of life.
"I feel as if I'm half-French and half-Canadian," divulged one woman. "We eat French food as well as Kraft Dinner. You won't find that in France!"
Another great way to meet people is at local festivals, ranging from the July 14th Bastille Day to the Basque Festival in August.
During the celebrations, you can learn about Basque ball games, such as pelota, tap your feet to the lively local music and watch demonstrations of traditional folk dancing.
Best of all, you don't have to cross the Atlantic to do it.
